When you think about Kazakhstan you think about kilometers of steppe. This short trip in Kazakhstan will give you Canyons, amazing lakes and time in a modern city.
Almaty
Arriving at night time was great coming from Uzbekistan. It was around 25 °C (77 °F) instead of 38 °C (100 °F). Almaty (also known as Alma-Ata), is the largest city in Kazakhstan with over two million people. The city is surrounded by mountains and it is the birthplace of the apple. That is why you will see a lot of apple sculptures in the city. Almaty has a very European vibe. Footpaths and cycling paths are everywhere. The Yandex Go scooters are a cheap and great option to get around in the big city. There were plenty of great restaurants in the city and it is a perfect base to visit the mountains and lakes.
Things to do in Almaty
Ascension Cathedral
Also known as Zenkov Cathedral is one of the biggest Cathedrals in Kazakhstan. The cathedral is located in the Panfilov Guardsmen Park, must visit park. The wooden church is almost built with no nails.
Monument of Panfilov
The monument and Ascension Cathedral are in the same park. The monument is named after the Panfilov heroes who died fighting the Nazis outside of Moscow. Ivan Panfilov and his division managed to delay the attack of the enemy. In front of the monument is the eternal flame.
Independence monument and Republic square
Republic square is the largest square in Almaty and got it’s name after the independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. The square remains important for political events, demonstrations and celebrations such as independence day. One of the most iconic monuments on the square is the Independence monument. The monument is 28 m tall with a golden warrior standing on the top that represents the heritage of the Kazakhs.
Central state museum of the republic of Kazakhstan
One of the largest museums of Central Asia. The museum houses an extensive collection of artifacts and exhibits related to the history, culture and ethnography of Kazakhstan. The collection ranges from prehistoric artifacts to traditional lifestyle, customs, life after the independence and modern life. Not all the descriptions next to the artifacts have English translations, which makes it difficult if you can’t read Kazakh or Russian.
Kok Tobe Hill
Kok Tobe Hill is a popular area in Almaty for locals and visitors. The hill is 1100 m above sea level and can be reached by cable car. On top of the hill are restaurants, rides, zip lining and walking paths. The TV tower can almost be seen from any point in Almaty.
Where to eat?
- Toquash, Fika and Nedelka are great for breakfast.
- Khinkali House has great Georgian food!
Charyn Canyon
Almaty to Charyn Canyon is a 3 hour drive. It was formed by the Sharyn river over millions of years, and is often compared to the Grand Canyon in the USA. There are various minerals in the rocks that make the canyon red, black, brown and orange.
Buy the tickets to the canyon on arrival. There is a café where you can have lunch, an observation deck and toilets. Walk over the top of the canyon to the Charyn Canyon viewpoint. After that, walk around the Tary Charyn (café), down the stairs to walk the valley of castles. You will walk through the canyon to the river and back. Walking through the canyon is so amazing! It is also possible to drive through the canyon by Russian truck (Buhanka). On weekends it can get busy, so you might have to wait in line for the Buhanka. The easy walk is 2 km one way.
What to bring when visiting Charyn Canyon:
- Plenty of water
- Sunscreen
- A hat. Especially when going in summer.
- Snacks
If you have your own transport it is also possible to stop at the black canyon. This canyon is situated between Charyn canyon and Saty. There are tour operators going from Almaty to Charyn Canyon for the day. On weekends it can get busy.
If you decide to stay longer at Charyn canyon there are more (unmarked) hiking trails and campgrounds at the canyon. We drove to Saty and stayed in a guesthouse for two nights.
Where to eat? The only place to eat near the Charyn canyon is at the Tary Charyn (café). Dinner and breakfast are available when staying at the guesthouse. There are small supermarkets in Saty to stock up on water and snacks. Make sure to bring enough cash.
Kolsai Lakes
After breakfast drive to the Kolsai lakes. The lakes, not far from Charyn Canyon, are also called the “Pearls of the Northern Tien Shan”. The alpine lakes are very picturesque. In total there are three Kolsai lakes. Lower Kolsai lake is 1818 m above sea level. This is the most accessible lake. Middle Kolsai lake is 2252 m above sea level. It can only be reached by hiking and takes 3-4 hours to get from lower to middle Kolsai lake. Upper Kolsai lake is 2850 m above sea level and takes around 5-6 hours hiking.
We just went to the lower Kolsai lake. On weekends it can get busy with touring buses, so try to go in the morning. There are plenty of outdoor activities to book. You can hire a paddle boat or boat for 5000 KZT (10 USD) per person for 30 min. It is also possible to go horse riding and go hiking around the lake. There are toilets and cafes near the parking lot. The road to Kolsai lake is good.
If you don’t have your own transport. There are two day tours visiting Charyn Canyon, Kolsai lakes and lake Kaindy. Online you will find plenty of options.
Kaindy Lake
Kaindy lake is known for its submerged forest. The lake is 15 km from Saty and is 2000 m above sea level. The lake was formed after a powerful earthquake that blocked the gorge and made a natural dam. Over time the dam filled with water and submerged the trees. The water is so clear that it looks like an underwater forest.
The lake is only accessible by 4wd. Ask your guesthouse if they know someone that can take you to Kaindy lake, because the road is in a very bad condition. We saw 3 cars that broke down on the way to Kaindy lake. Not sure that is because of the roads or the state of the cars…
Once you get to the main car park you can go horse riding or you can take the Buhanka to Kaindy lake. We took the Buhanka to the lake and walked back to the main car park (1.5 km descend).
During the summer, it is possible to scuba dive in Kaindy Lake. Be sure you are acclimated to the altitude. The water temperature is around 6°C (42.8°F), so you will need a dry suit.
Kegen land border
It takes 5 hours to get from Saty (Kazakhstan) to Karakol (Kyrgyzstan). Most travelers cross the border near Almaty and continue on to Bishkek. Since there are plenty of buses on this route, it’s easier to return to Almaty if you don’t have your own car.
If you want to hitchhike it is possible to get a taxi to Kegen and hitchhike across to Karakol.
We had our own transport and it was quicker to travel from Saty to Kegen with the final destination Karakol. The Kegen border crossing is small and not many cars drive through.
How to get around?
By train
There is a train that travels from Tashkent (Uzbekistan) to Almaty (Kazakhstan). It takes around 16 – 18 hours and operates several times a week. The train will stop at the border for several hours till everyone has gone through passport control.
It is not possible to go from Almaty to Charyn Canyon, Kolsai lake or Kaindy lake by train.
By plane
There are daily flights from Tashkent (Uzbekistan) to Almaty (Kazakhstan). The flight takes 1 hour and 30 minutes.
Not included in this itinerary is the capital Astana. Flights from Almaty to the capital take 1 hour and 50 minutes.
By taxi
Download the Yandex Go app! You can use it to order a taxi but also to reserve a Yandex Go scooter in Almaty. Almaty is a big city and the walking paths are wide. There are also cycling paths, which makes it easier to get around with the electric scooter. Whoosh and Jet are also available in Almaty, but we couldn’t use them. They only accept local currency, and we only had USD and Euro’s.
If you want to visit the national parks, such as Charyn Canyon, Kolsay Lake and Kaindy Lake it is better to organise a tour or hire a car. Remember that the roads are really bad. Yes, sometimes it was better to drive next to the road instead of on the road.
Budget in Kazakhstan
Hotels
Hostels: from 9 Euro per night in a dorm.
Hotels: from 30 Euro per night.
Food
Almaty is a bit more expensive to go for dinner. Dinner for two people is around 20 – 40 Euro. Breakfast is around 20 Euro for two people.
Flights
Flying from Amsterdam to Almaty is with at least one stop in either Riga, Munich or Istanbul. We flew directly from Tashkent to Almaty. It is also possible to take the train to Almaty
Flights Amsterdam to Almaty are from 600 Euro return.
Visiting other countries in Central Asia?
Have a look at the itineraries for Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan.
