This itinerary starts in Karakol and finishes in Bishkek. It is also possible to start in Bishkek and make a loop around lake Issyk Kul. This itinerary covers Altyn-Arashan, Seven Bulls rock, Fairytale Canyon, Issyk kul lake, Song-kul lake and Bishkek.
Day 1: Travelling overland from Kazakhstan (Kegen border)
From Saty (Kazakhstan) it takes 5 hours to get to Karakol (Kyrgyzstan). Regularly there is a power outage at customs on the Kyrgyzstan side, so it can take longer to get through customs. Most travelers cross the border to Kyrgyzstan near Almaty and start their Kyrgyzstan trip in Bishkek. That is where most marshrutka (minibuses) go. It is not possible to cross the Kegen border by marshrutka. The road from the border (near Kegen) to Karakol is very bad. You will need your own transport or hitchhike. It is very common to hitchhike in Kyrgyzstan. Even the locals do it.
Karakol is on the eastern tip of Issyk kul lake. The city is 1700 m above sea level and is a popular destination for outdoor activities such as hiking, mountaineering, skiing and snowboarding. The drive from Bishkek takes about 6-7 hours.
Where to eat? Go to Sierra Coffee for breakfast.
Day 2: Altyn Arashan
After breakfast, go to Altyn Arashan (2,552 m above sea level). There are two ways to travel: by 4WD (or “Buhanka”), which takes about 2 hours to get to Altyn Arashan, or by hiking. Hiking takes about 5 hours (15 km) to reach Altyn Arashan. Most people start from Ak-Suu village (Teploklyuchenka). There are minibuses going from Karakol to Ak-Suu village. The hike can be slippery, so make sure to wear hiking shoes. After the hike, relax in the natural baths. There are two options: a paid natural bath and a free natural bath. The last option is small and requires a short walk. It overlooks the Arashan river.
Stay the night in Altyn Arashan.
Where to stay? Stay at Ala kul guesthouse and book the room with the mountain view.
Day 3: Karakol
Stay two nights in Altyn Arashan if you have more time and you want to hike to Ala-kul lake. The hike takes around 7 to 8 hours. The pass is at 3900 meters, and the trekking season runs from June to September. It is also possible to do this trek by horse. Ask the guesthouse for the cost and different options.
If you don’t go hiking, return to Karakol by car and visit the Seven Bulls (also called Jeti-Ögüz). The Seven Bulls are red sandstone formations west of Karakol. The rocks are said to resemble seven bulls. There is a viewpoint with a small shop, and it is a popular place for hiking and picnicking.
Continue driving to the Kök-Jaiyk Valley. Walk up to the Maiden Braids waterfalls. The walk takes about 1.5 hours and offers great views over the valley. It can be muddy, so wear good hiking shoes. Horses also travel the trail, and it can get crowded with families.
Drive back to Karakol and visit the colorful Dungan Mosque. Make sure to cover your shoulders, knees, and head (for women). The Dungan Mosque looks different from a typical mosque, as it has a Chinese design. Also, visit the Holy Trinity Cathedral (the wooden Orthodox church) in Karakol.
Stay the night in Karakol.
Where to eat? Go for dinner at Dastorkon in Karakol.
Day 4: Skazka Canyon and Bokonbaevo
In the morning, drive south of Issyk-Kul Lake. Issyk-Kul translates to “Warm Lake.” It is the largest lake in Kyrgyzstan and the second-largest mountain lake in the world, sitting at 1,600 meters above sea level. On the north side of the lake, you’ll find all the resorts. The south side is much quieter, with apricot trees, canyons, and beaches where the locals go.
Drive to Barskoon Waterfall (2.5 hours from Karakol) and take a short walk. The road to Barskoon from Issyk-Kul Lake is mostly sand. The hike to the first waterfall is a 15-minute steep walk. Walk back and follow the path to the right, where you will see the second waterfall. The second waterfall is a 15-minute walk from the first.
Get some lunch (there is a small supermarket in Tosor). Enter the Fairytale Canyon National Park by car. The fee is per person. Drive to the car park and walk up to the different viewpoints. Fairytale (or Skazka) Canyon has vivid red, orange, and yellow rock formations. Combined with the shapes of the rocks, it creates a magical place. Wear good walking shoes as it can get slippery from the sand.
Continue the drive to Bokonbaevo, where you’ll stay at a guesthouse. If you arrive early and the weather is nice, put on your swimsuit and spend the afternoon at Issyk-Kul Lake.
Where to eat? There are not many restaurants in Bokonbaevo. Have dinner at the guesthouse if they offer it.
Day 5: Kochkor and Song Kol Lake
After breakfast, go to an eagle demonstration in Bokonbaevo. We visited Federation Salburun. The people don’t speak English, so you’ll need someone to translate for you if you don’t speak Russian or Kyrgyz. They demonstrate how the eagle hunts, showcase archery, horseriding, and they have Taigan dogs (Kyrgyz hunting dogs). Kyrgyz nomads began taming the golden eagle to help with hunting during the harsh winter months. This was essential for obtaining food and fur. Nowadays, there are no nomads in Kyrgyzstan, but the tradition is kept alive. The golden eagle is still a highly respected bird in Kyrgyz culture and is known for being intelligent and powerful. They can kill foxes, hares, lynxes, and even wolves. The eagles are kept for around 15 years before being released back into the wild.
After the show, drive to Kochkor for lunch and then make your way to Song-Kul Lake (a 3-hour drive). On the way, stop at the Kalmak-Ashu Pass (3,447 meters above sea level). In summer, you’ll see a lot of cattle. The shepherds bring the cattle up to the lake where there is more food during the summer months. It is a beautiful sight. On the way to the yurt camp, we saw locals play a game of kok boru (a traditional nomad game played by two teams on horseback with the carcass of a goat).
During sunset, walk over to the lake and enjoy the sun setting over the water. Stay the night in a yurt. Make sure to bring warm clothes.
Day 6: Kok Moinok Canyon and Chon-Kemin
Have breakfast and get on the horse. Ask the yurt camp owners to arrange for horses and a guide. Go for a nice two-hour horse ride. Enjoy the beautiful panoramic views of the mountain peaks, the clear waters of Song-Kul Lake, and the herds of sheep, horses, and cows.
Make your way back to Kochkor (a 3-hour drive) and have some lunch. I would recommend having lunch in Kochkor as there isn’t much between Song-Kul Lake and Kochkor.
After lunch, make your way to Kok Moinok Canyon (a 45-minute drive). While not as famous as Song-Kul Lake, Kok Moinok Canyon is a true hidden gem. The red and orange rock formations have been sculpted by wind and water erosion. The formations are often compared to the canyons in Utah and Arizona (USA). Go for a walk, then make your way to the guesthouse in Chon-Kemin.
Where to stay? Stay at the Jekshen guest house in Chon-Kemin.
Day 7: Burana Tower and Bishkek
The last day of the road trip before finishing in Bishkek. Make your way to the Burana Tower.
Pay the entrance fee (around 120 KGS) and visit the small museum which showcases some artifacts, the stones outside next to the museum and walk up the Burana tower. It gets very dark when climbing up the stairs, so you might want to use the light on your phone to see the steps. Also, the stairs are narrow and steep.
The Burana tower is an ancient minaret that is one of the last remains from the city of Balasagun. If you have been to Uzbekistan before than the Burana tower is nothing to write home about.
The Burana tower is easily visited on a day trip from Bishkek.
Drive to Bishkek (a 1.5-hour drive) to conclude your road trip.
Day 8: Chunkurchak valley
If you can’t get enough of the beautiful nature of Kyrgyzstan, Chunkurchak Valley might be a nice place to go. The valley is only 45 kilometers south of Bishkek and is part of the Ala-Too mountain range. You could spend the day there, or if you have more time, it is also possible to go for a multi-day hike. The valley has dramatic mountain backdrops and dense pine forests. In winter, Chunkurchak Valley is a good place for people who would like to learn skiing or snowboarding. The ski resort is more beginner-friendly and smaller than the ski resort in Karakol.
Where to eat? Have lunch at Supara Chunkurchak.
Day 9: Bishkek
Your last few days will be spend in Bishkek before flying home. Check this blog for more things to do in Bishkek.
How to get around?
By train
We didn’t travel by train in Kyrgyzstan, but it is possible to travel by train from Bishkek.
By plane
There are domestic flights from Bishkek to Osh. Most travelers choose other travel means such as marshrutka or car.
Bishkek has an international airport. To get to Europe you most likely fly with Turkish airlines and will have a stopover at Istanbul airport.
By taxi
Download the Yandex Go app! You can use it to order a taxi but also to reserve a Yandex Go scooter in Bishkek.
If you want to visit the national parks, such as Song Kol lake, Kok Moinok Canyon and Skazka Canyon it is better to organise a tour or hire a car. Remember that the roads are really bad.
Visiting other countries in Central Asia?
Have a look at the itineraries for Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan.
Budget
Flights
We drove from Kazakhstan to Kyrgyzstan (crossed at the Kegen border). Return flights from Amsterdam to Bishkek are cheaper than flying to the other Stan countries.
Flights Amsterdam to Bishkek are from 500 Euro return.
Hotels
Hostel: From 7 Euro per night in a dorm room.
Hotel: From 20 Euro per night.
Yurt: From 25 Euro per night.
Food
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