Khiva
I am not going to deny it… Traveling on the old Soviet train from Tashkent to Khiva was not the most comfortable trip. We traveled in VIP class, but it was still two small, hard benches. Let me say… it was an experience. 😉
Around 1 pm, we checked in to our hotel in Khiva and were very hungry, so we had lunch at Café Zarafshon. Khiva is a very small city where no cars are allowed. It once was the most important city on the Silk Road and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site filled with beautiful Islamic madrasahs, mosques, and minarets. Khiva is also called Itchan Kala, the city inside the walls.
To enter the museums, it is recommended to buy tickets at the West Gate. The tickets are valid for two days, grant entrance to 15 museums, and cost 200.000 UZS (15 USD) per person. It is possible to book a tour guide at the West Gate, or you can book one at your hotel.
7 things to do in Khiva
1. Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum
This mausoleum is dedicated to Pahlavan Mahmud, a renowned poet and wrestler. His tomb became a popular pilgrimage site. The building has a Khiva-style architecture, with blue, white and turquoise tiles.
2. Juma Mosque
Also known as the Friday Mosque, it is distinguished by its 213 carved wooden pillars, each unique in design. Unlike typical mosques, it lacks minarets and domes, giving it a distinctive appearance.
3. Toshhovli Palace
This palace boasts 150 rooms and multiple courtyards. Each wing served a specific purpose, such as the harem, the official reception area, and the private quarters for Allakuli Khan’s family. Construction began in 1830 and took eight years to complete. The elaborate decorations and beautiful tilework reflect the richness of the area and the elegance of Islamic architecture at that time.
4. Walk over the walls during sunset
Stroll along the ancient city walls at sunset to enjoy panoramic views of Khiva’s beautiful buildings from a higher vantage point. The walls, dating back to the 10th century, are 10 meters high and stretch over 2.2 km in length. There are four gates (North, East, South, and West Gate). Note that some sections of the wall may be closed, and there might be a fee to access certain parts.
5. Kuhna Ark
Originally constructed in the 12th century, this old citadel was later expanded by other khans in the 17th century. The citadel contained everything necessary for a small city: a mint, stables, an arsenal, barracks, a mosque, and even a jail. The old mint, now a museum, once produced coins and even banknotes printed on silk. It offers a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the khans and their operations.
6. Islam Khoja Minaret
The minaret is part of a complex that includes a mosque and madrasa. Standing 57 meters high, the minaret is the skyline of Khiva. Visitors can climb to the top of the minaret for breathtaking panoramic views of the city.
7. Going on a walking tour
It is possible to book a walking tour when purchasing tickets at the West Gate. We booked our tour guide through the hotel. I really enjoyed listening to stories about the history of Khiva while wearing the local summer (white) hats and winter (black) hats. Seeing the various mosques and exploring the quiet streets was a memorable experience. Although you can explore on your own once you have the tickets, having a local guide adds depth and insight, especially since not every museum offers extensive information.
Where to eat in Khiva?
There is so much to see inside the city walls of Khiva that you won’t want to venture out too far. Here are some recommended places to have lunch or dinner. Be sure to pin them on your Google Maps or offline maps for easy access:
- Terrassa Cafe
- Cafe Zarafshon
- Sultan
- Tapas restaurant
How to get around?
By train
There is a sleeper train from Tashkent to Khiva and another from Khiva to Bukhara. You can book train tickets in advance through Uzbekistan railways. With VIP tickets, you’ll have a private cabin (sleeper train). The cabin has two small benches with a table in the middle. Linnen en pillows are also included. There is aircon in the cabin.
By plane
Flying from Tashkent to Urgench is another option. The flight takes approximately 1.5 hours with Uzbekistan Airways. Many hotels can arrange airport pickup for around 10–15 USD. The drive from Urgench to Khiva takes about 35–40 minutes.
By taxi
From Khiva train station to the guesthouses within the city walls, is about a 4 km drive (less than 10 minutes). Once you are inside Itchan Kala, everything is within walking distance.
Where to stay in Khiva?
- Arkanchi hotel located inside the city walls, offers convenient access to Khiva’s main attractions. The staff is very friendly and can help organize a taxi to Bukhara. They can also arrange for an English-speaking guide for the day.
- Polvon Qori boutique hotel is a renovated madrasah just outside the city walls, near the East Gate. The hotel features a beautiful courtyard. The staff is happy to arrange a shuttle service from the train station or airport.
- Khiva Siyovush Hotel is run by a family and is based inside the city walls. The rooms are clean, spacious and the breakfast is amazing.